Germia - gaming world

Xena's chakram making tips + free patterns

I decided to make my next childhood dream come true and become Xena. So I started drawing patterns for her cosplay and during my research, I've learned a lot of important tips regarding chakram, it's proportions, use and look.

Those tips are following:

1) Sides are not the same!

Everyone knows how chakram looks like - or do they? Did you know, that chakram looks different from each side? One side has a pointy gold pattern and the other has a rectangle gold pattern.

2) Decorate your chakram in style!

Also - the shiny round things on the chakram are paua shell round cabochons in green and blue, so if you want to be as accurate as possible, buy paua shell!
You can find it HERE on ebay ;)

3) Splitting chakram?

If you want to be more original, there is another version of her Chakram in the series - it's called Splitting Chakram and it's the most badass thing imaginable - it looks like Ying Yang sign and it could be disassembled in two parts and use as dual wielded hand weapon. BADASS!
Btw. pattern included!

4) Don't make the pattern wrong! 

Be careful about the rectangular pattern on the Chakram, because even her original merchandise had it wrong! It should NOT look like the chakram on the pic on the right!

5) Mind the size!

Look at the picture - chakram is huuuge! It is 25 cm wide, so don't make it smaller (or bigger ;))

6) Now you can just download the patterns:


And here you can find a tutorial how to print pictures on normal a4 page to align nicely to each other

Special thanks to:


How to make your own cosplay patterns using 3D modelling + free Starcraft pauldron pattern

When I announced Lt. Morales as my next cosplay, I didn't imagine how hard it would be to pull of patterns, that actually don't alling to my body. Lt. Morales is huge, like really huge - and her armor pieces are also really huge. We cosplayers are all used to making patterns on our own body or on a human-like figourine and we are used to several different techniques:

1) Taping your body to trace your curves and make the patterns simpler

2) Make patterns directly on your body/figourine and adjust them in the process of making.

I'm using both of the techniques in my builds, but I've always made patterns on a solid body mass, not just in the air to make armor that is so bulky as hers and that doesn't correspond to my body at all... So I was really struggling to make this one.

Good thing to do before starting your cosplay, is to make research and I always make research for different pictures, referrence materials or cosplayers, that made this cosplay before me. And I've found one, that made Lt. Morales too with using the 3D modelling software. And as I've used 3D modelling before I thought it could me fun to learn a new patterning technique and I can spare some time and her blog was a big help, but...

...I actually didn't spare a lot of time - when you're making something for the first time (even you have some idea how), you have to overcome a lot of different obstacles and problems you didn't expect, but I can SPARE YOUR TIME by telling you exactly how to do it!

I struggled 3 days with different programs and their versions, but thanks to the modding community, I was able to transfer the 3Dmodel of Morales through 3 different programs into a workable object and work on her in Meshmixer, disassemble her armor into pieces and make a 2D pattern out of it in Pepakuradesigner and mod the file into workable foampattern pieces, but step- by-step:

1) What you have to do first is to download free program called CasView HERE. This program allows you to download Blizzard model files into your computer. Open it in your computer, press Browse, find your installed game (in my case: Heroes of the Storm in C:, Program Files) and import data folder into the program. I found my Morales in mods/heroes.stormmod/base.stormassets/Assets/Units/Heroes/Storm_Hero_Medic_base and there you have your .m3 file that you need.

2) Then it starts to be kinda harder (sorry). The blog of the cosplayer I've read is using just a modding tweak for Blender to get this done, but it didn't work for me at all and it's not described as elaborately as you can possibly need as a beginner - but you can try it HERE.
But don't worry - I've figured out a way how to make it possible, even it is not without a struggle - You have to download/buy a paid 3D modelling software called Autodesk 3DS Max - I've used an older version of this software and I really recommend using version 12 or 13 more than going for a newer version. You can download the older version HERE and try it for 30 days for free. If you want to own the program forever, you have to buy a serial and product key.
I've achieved to transfer the file because of THIS tutorial about transferring .m3 files into workable pieces.
Don't be scared of how 3DS Max looks like, I don't understand it much either, but you don't have to work in this hard-to-understand program - this is just to make our model workable in Blender.Then you have to download Talyor Mouse's M3 Import script, that makes *.m3 files workable in 3DS Max. You can download it HERE.

So when you have your Autodesk 3DS Max 12 installed, you have to open 3DS Max, click on MAXscript on the main panel and click Runscript In the new window, you'll see the script that you can run. Open it. Or you can just drag and drop the M3 addon the scripts folder in the folder where the program is installed. Then go to the right side of the screen, where the tools are diplayed, click on a small hammer icon (Utilities), choose MAXscript, choose M3 Import (v3.2) and select the .m3 file you want to import. Select your file and then check all the blank windows (bones, materials) to import all the file features into 3DS MAx.Then the model will appear in the program. Now you have to export the file as *.obj file by choosing the Autodesk logo in the upper left corner, click export, choose *.stl file, give it a name and click save.

3) Then you have to download a program called Autodesk Meshmixer - it is a free and really easy-to-use program for 3D printing. - download it HERE. It is a free software, where you can really easily work with the model and it is really easy to learn. Tbh there is nothing to learn, you need just the basics, that you can figure out yourself, try it, or watch my video below.

If you import your .stl file into Blender, your model will appear as a big pill or a ball. Don't be scared! It's perfectly normal - it's a hitbox texture. You have to select (use select tool) the textures you don't want to include in your build and delete them (click delete button on your keyboard).
When you are perfectly happy with your build and only model without any hitbox textures is left, click Edit tool, click Generate face groups and the amount you choose will then make the same armor pieces into one color and will group them - so if you click twice on it, it will be selected as a whole. Then save your project. Now save your project once again with the name of the part of the model you want to make patterns of. For example pauldron. Now select all the textures that are not pauldron and delete them till only the pauldron is left. Then extract the piece in *.stl formate.

4) Next step is to buy and download program called Pepakura Designer 4. You can download it HERE. It is a program for making paper cutouts, so your perfectly smooth in-game model will be kinda pointy - you have to count with it and adjust it during the actuall cutting with the scissors later when your patterns are printed.

To unfold your model into 2D pattern, you have to click UNFOLD button on the top. Now the pattern looks really weird. It is adjusted automatically in Pepakura program to be the easiest to make from paper - so there are a lot of unlogically connected pieces, it has paper flaps, we don't need...
You have to then click on 2D menu, unselect Show flaps. Then click on underlined pencil button (Line Color) and lower the amount of edges (to aproximatelly 160 degrees - but it depends on the build youre making). The the whole work is up to you - you have to connect and disconnect pieces and think about how it will be best for your foam build. I'm actually making those last two steps in the video below!

You can also name your parts so it is easier for you to orient in the different pieces. Also, think about the SCALE of your armor to fit your body - measure twice before printing out! You can scale it in 2d menu - change scale and I measured it to be the right size according to normal size of a A4 paper. Next thing you have to think of is the position of your pieces on the paper - always think about how it will be the easiest to cut, how it will be the easiest to glue together and how it will be the most eco-friendly - don't use unnecessary amounts of paper.

It is a really time-consuming technique, but I still think it will pay out in terms of how good it looks and in terms of how much nerves I spare with making up and remaking my own patterns, that could be really exhausting.

and as a reward I've thought this pauldron is one of the most universal parts of the cosplay, that could be reused for any other bulky or Starcraft 2 project - so here is a PEPAKURA FILE TO DOWNLOAD of my pauldron and FREE PDF PATTERN TO DOWNLOAD. Please, watch me working on my pauldron first before using the pattern, because cutting your foam in the right angle is the key feature of making good armor using pattern like this. Also - on the video, there is shown the outcome of the pauldron and it is really big! Scale it down if you think it is too big for you!

I've made this tutorial with the support of my PATREON followers. They allowed me to find time to make this elaborate tutorial and free to download patterns for you and with support of my TWITCH subscribers I can also share some videos of me working in those programs so it is much easiers for you to learn how to work with those :) Please, consider supporting me too, so I can make more tutorials and free patterns for you! <3

Also, visit my facebook page for progress pics and cosplay pictures!

Best of luck on your project!



Odin from Smite - cosplay by Germia

Photo by Karolina Ryvolova photography

1) Why I chose to make this costume:

I admire nordic mythology, as I said already in my article about my Haven Paladin cosplay from MMH7. And during the process of making my Paladin cosplay, my dad said to me, that he wants a matching cosplay to mine, some epic badass armor, that will suit him. I immediately thought about Odin and Smite was the first thing, that came to my mind. Odin from Smite is as big as my dad, he is badass, he has big armor and he inspires awe.
Eventually I made this costume really fast, because he wanted to wear it for the wedding anniversary of him and my mom. It's made to fit him, but in fact it could be worn by any big guy or even me (I'm pretty tall).


2) How I made this costume:

1) Helmet

I traced the helmet on the cast of my head, that was slightly adjusted to be bigger as the head of my dad. I covered it in food foil and taped the food foil with adhesive tape. Then I drew the lines of the patterns on the tape form. I cut the shapes, transfered them onto craftfoam (moosgummi) and covered it in worbla to hold the shape.
Then I made the horns out of foam taped in adhesive tape, glued them to the helmet and covered it in papermache out of newspapers and woodglue. Then I primed it with latex cement and made the details out of EVA foam, used the fussing glass cabochons for decoration in front and back and painted it all black. Then I used my sponge-painting technique for painting the golden parts and try to make shades on the horns just with a normal brush and acrylic colors. The shading with acrylics could be much better when using anti-drying fluid. Then I used shiny acrylic structure gel to make the surface of the horns shinier.

2) Beard

I have to say, that buying a long grey beard isn't an easy thing to do. I have to admit, even on e-bay are these wizard beards and wizard wigs prices pretty damn high! :D So I've done something, that was against all my rules and advices I've written about and I bought a wizard wig and beard, with photoshopped picture and if you look closely, the wig is crepped to add volume to it. So I've risked a lot. A shiny beard and badly fitting wig came, the overall volume of the beard was bad. So I've decided to cut the wig in pieces and use it for adding volume to the beard. And here's the result - thick beard, that I could braid in three thick braids and I'm really satisfied with it. It's still shiny, but I like it - Odin is a God, so it kinda fits. But if you want to get rid of shine from your wig, you can try to bath it in fabric softener mixed with water (1:2) (and talc powder) for a few days. It cost around 250 Kč = 9 Euro. Oh and the bottom parts of the braids are then decorated with foam pieces. And to hold them on their place, I glued hair clips inside of them :)

3) Eye-patch

The eye-pathc was one of the simplest parts of the costume. I just traced the shape of the eye onto a paper and made bulky shaped pattern (because the person wearing it has it's own eye in there and when you make a space for the eye inside, it will be much more comfortable for him to move the eye.) The I traced the pattern onto a foam, cut it with exacto knife and glued it together. Then I cut stripes from moosgummi and made an eye shape on the patch. I painted it whole black and used my spinge-tapping technique to make it gold. Then I glued small rubber bands from both sides to hold on the head.

4) Boots

As I looked on the boots of Odin, it reminded me of snowboots. Fortunately, my father owns snowboots with camouflage, that made a fitting base for Odin's boots. I traced the shapes on paper and transfered them on the foam. From the backside, there are two elastic bands to allow small movements for the foam cover. A small vecro could be fastened to the boot lace from the bottom side of the foam.  I decorated the foam with moosgummi and painted it with acrylics. I sewn two fluffy cylinder shapes from old hairy coat, that could be opened and closed with velcros on the back side. The cylinders are then glued to the foam on the bottom, and pinned to the boot on the top.

5) Shoulder armor, collar

Shoulder armor are just rectangle pieces of 1cm foam with moosgummi border decorations and soldered ornaments, that are curved around the shoulder and connected with velcros on top to the collar and around the armpit.
Collar was made also out of EVA foam, it was decorated with moosgummi and soldering too and wrapped around the neck - it is hold on it's place by the other parts like shoulder armor and cape parts and it can be connected with velcros in the front (the connection is covered with beard).
To the collar I glued the back cape and the fur piece, that was really easy to make, since I took a collar from fur coat, tweaked it a little and glued it to the foam collar and that's it!

As you can see on the picture, the soldered pattern is not even and I thought it would be much more realistic when it is not even, so I didn't tried to make the pattern superperfect ;)

6) Skirt 

 The skirt is actually made from three layers - there is a long brown skirt with golden details, shorter two-layered skirt right under the belt and blue part right in the middle of it all.
The biggest skirt I made from old leather coat - So it is just the bottom part of the coat, that I cut and sewn into it a space for a lace, that is laced in thw fron of the body and the whole skirt is mainly on the back of the body. The I took golden lurex ribbons and glued them onto the leather since the leather was too strong to sew into. The skirt is on the 2 pictures in left corner. And because the skirt was really heavy, it holds in it's place not only becaus of the lace, but also because of the braces (3rd pic).
Second skirt looked leathery like the first one, but I hadn't any more good quality leather, so I decided to make this part  from moosgummi. And how to make moosgummi look like leather? Look at the two pics in the bottom middle part of the collage - You just take dark moosgummi, put a wrinkled aluminium foil onto it and you iron the aluminium on the moosgummi. And it makes in the moosgummi perfet leather pattern for you to use. I've just put brown acrylic paint onto it and tried to mix different shades to match the real leather used fro the other skirt. Then I covered it in shiny acrylic medium gel to make the surface shiny and match again the other skirt. The front skirt needed then much more love because of the amount of decorations I had to put on it - there are a lot of 2mm and 0,5 foam decorations painted with golden acrylic paint.
Then I had to make the third skirt part and it was a blue fabric skirt - I chose the same dark blue velvet fabric, sewn it into desired shape, decorated it with differen golden and silver ribbons that match the ingame model and glued it to the second skirt with hot glue gun. As you can see, I struggled to find the right way how to decorate it - fabric color really didn't look good on velvet, so the ribbons were much better way how to decorate it ;)

7) Cape

The cape was made similarly as the third skirt part - it is just three different rectangle parts made out of dark blue velvet fabric and decorated with ribbons. Two parts are attached to the shoulder pad and arms go through them - to be honest - it looks great, it is the same like on the game model and it covers the bracers that hold the leather skirt!
The back part is the biggest rectangle piece, that i glued under the collar.

Look at the picture to se how all the parts go together:

8) Belt

Belt is made entirely from 0,5 cm foam, there are on the inner parts decorations from 2mm craftfoam/moosgummi and 0,5 cm foam borders. The ends are underglued with unvowen black fabric and I put two grommets on each end to lace the belt in desired length - I counted with changing body shape of my father, so I tried to make everything either laced or velcro connected.
The middle part is made mainly from 1cm thick EVA foam, but I tried to make the blue parts inside look like a glass, so I filled it with glass colors and it looked like a vitrage!

9) Gloves

Gloves are just long leather working gloves that I painted with brown acrylic color, cut off the fingers, because Odin's gloves are fingerless, decorated them with 2mm craftfoam (moosgummi) on the fist and with 1cm EVA foam stripe with a filling of softer foam, that made the border. And as wioth other parts, I made the nordic pattern in the border with soldering iron.

10) Gambeson

Gambeson is a part of a (not-only) medieval soldier/knight, that was worn under and armor. It was a thick, mostly quilted torzo cover, sometimes used even without an armor. I wasn't very succesfull finding the right brown quilted material with the right rhombus shape on it. And then I found a huge jacket in a second hand shop with the perfect lining inside. So I've actually used lining for the gambeson :D
I've sewn the borders, I've made a holes to be worn as a corset and I've decorated the whole thing with plastic rivets in silver finish. So the whole thing is actually worn backwards, I just adapted it to be comfortable, made borders and it is closed with corset lacing. I added some velcros, that hold other armor parts on the place.

11) Knee pads

The base of the knee pads is made from 1cm thick foam, that is glued onto an unvowen fabric. On the ends of the fabric, there is a velcro with elastic band that holds the knee pad on it's place and the elastc bands allows for free movement.
I decorated then the piece with 2mm moosgummi and 0,5 cm foam for the borders and painted it with acrylic colors.

12) Spear

 The spear was made out of looooong wooden pole used for making brooms. It is heavily decorated with different sizes of foam - mainly 2mm thick moosgummi with soldered and paintbrushed details, and 0,5mm foam for upper and bottom parts. I've also glued a soft foam on the places, where Odin holds the spear in glued a bast cord around the foam and painted it with different shades of brown. It really feels good int he hand!
One of the hardest parts was dividing the spear into two different pieces, since the spear itself measures around 2,5-3 meters. I cut the pole in two pieces (mind the place of cutting since it has to be hidden somehow) and I drilled a bigger hole into the bottom part in order to put inside a long metal nut (female srew) and glued it into it with two parts epoxy glue. The same I did on the other part. I just glue a male screw into it - keep in mind that your male screw should be headless so you don't have to make an unnecessary bigger hole. Next thing to keep in mind - you have to tryto screw the pieces together before gluing and be sure that it works well. Also - the angle of the drilled holes should be straight - if you drill the holes a little off, your spear can end up crooked - I made the holes myself and I managed to pull it off, but if you are not sure if you can make it yourself, ask (for example in the shop where you bought the pole) if some expert with the right tools can make it for you. Then I wrapped worbla around the connection to make it more sturdy and solid and decorated it with foam.
But this is not all - I had to make a lot of decorations - I made them out of 0,5 EVA foam and glued them to the spear on several places. I thought about making them from worbla, but with good quality dense foam you can make it nice and sturdy without using worbla.
The top part is made out of  XPS polystyrene, that was shaped with exacto knife and dremmel, smoothened with acrylic cement, decorated with blue glass color, small foam pieces and hand made glass cabochons and painted with acrylic colors and paintbrush. Then I mounted the top part on the pole and glued it into place with hot glue.
The bottom part had to be really hard and sturdy and withstand a lot of stress, since I assumed my father would like to lean on the spear sometimes or use it sometimes as a walking stick. So I made it from 1cm foam and covered it all in worbla thermoplastic.

13) Back decorations

Some of you may notice, that on the ingame model, Odin has some kind of big armor parts on his back. In order to simplify wearing the costume for my dad, I decided not to make this part of the costume, since my father is not used to wear complicated costumes and it is really exhausting for him to wear the costume even without the big backpack structure.

And if you see someone being this happy about wearing the costume, you know you did your job right:

Also, look at other pics I made together with talented Milos Mlady:

And if you like my work ans tutorials, please follow me on my FACEBOOK PAGE for my new work, please, or you can SUPPORT my work and creation of articles like this HERE ON MY PATREON PAGE




How to choose the best foam for your cosplay

Beacause I messed up badly few times by buying foam and didn't know about the importance of DENSITY, I decided to make a tutorial/test for you.
It is supposed to show you what happens with your foam if you stress it in different ways and which foam is the best for your project.

I'm now using mostly the 45/kg/m3 craftfoam from and even it is not the most dense foam on the market, it is really durable and easy to work with, can withstand a lot of stress and it is (most importantly for us cosplayers) cheap. If you buy your foam in other shops, that I have no experience with, keep in mind to ask about density or at least have a sample to make your own test before buying a lot of it. Or you'll end up with tons of sleeping mat quality or seemingly good foam with lower density, that will ruin your cosplay.

When I started cosplaying, I was watching tutorials to learn how to make epic armor and all the cosplayers were using "EVA foam" everywhere. The main reasons why  the authors of the tutorials chose EVA foam for their build was, that it is cheap and practical for cosplay.

So I started searching for this material and wasn't really succesfull finding it. I know there are shops selling those EVA foam puzzles in USA and there are some similar products sold for example in Germany, but here in Czech Republic? NOTHING!

45kg/m3 craftfoam on the left,
<40kg/m3 craftfoam on the right (disassembled)
both after one wearing
So I thought to myself - they are using foam and it kinda looks like a sleeping pads for camping (karimatka). I went to our local sports shop and bought two sleeping pads, that I tried to use for my build of Demon Hunter - look at the pictures - I really used it for the cosplay and I can't believe it now :D The surface was so badly bulky, the inside structure was bubbly and it didn't hold it's shape, it couldn't be primed and it teared when stressed. Even me as a beginner knew, that something wasn't right...

So I've searched EVA all over the internet and found a sleeping mat from this material. And bought around 6 of them :D Oh my God, I shouldn't have done that! Guys, don't use sleeping mats for your projects! Sleeping mats should be comfortable and soft for sleeping, not sturdy and hard as we cosplayers need!
You cannot believe how soft the foam II bought is - it cannot be used for anything else than padding - it tears so much and doesn't hold it's shape...

Even the sleeping mat I bought IS FROM EVA FOAM, it's main features are determined by it's density! So if you have a sleeping mat, it is not so dense to be comfortable for people to sleep on. Even some manufacturers offering EVA foam as walking mats use much lower density than we cosplayers need! Be careful about that and always ask manufacturers or sellers about thedensity of the foam!

I prepared a small showcase of lower and higher density foam materials for you, just to show you how different density foam behaves and why you have to buy higher density foam for your build. For my comparison, I'm using foam from, because I'm really satisfied with their products and as I've tried several other foam products, this one is the one I'm most satisfied with.

1) BLUE EVA SLEEPING MAT - the lowest density (less than 30 kg/m3 I guess), 0,7 cm thick
- don't use!
2) LOWER DENSITY EVA FOAM - (less than 40 kg/m3 I guess), 0,5 cm thick
- don't use!
3) EVA CRAFT FOAM from - (45 kg/m3), 0,5 cm thick
- used for most of my armor builds - in my opinion best quality/price ratio
4) EVA CF65 FOAM from - (65kg/m3), 0,5 cm thick
- used for the builds, that need to be much sturdier
5) EVA CF100 FOAM from - (100kg/m3)
- used by proffesional prop makers for guns and other sturdy props

First, let's come to PRESSURE TEST
a.k.a. how does the foam withstand other stuff pushing onto it? It is really painful to have your armor pressed in the suitcase and damaged as hell after you take it out. Or what happened to me was, that I accidentally went over my armor with my heavy gaming chair and made creases in it. One way to avoid that is to use higher density foam fo your cosplay, just take a look:

Second in line is the ABRASION TEST
a.k.a. how does the foam withstands contact with other stuff? I actually had to remake my knee armor for my Auriel cosplay, because it was soooo worn out from touching each other (the knee armor touches with my every step), that there were no edges left, just a reminiscent dull rest of the original sharp pointy shape. One way to never let this happen again is to use higher density foam fo your cosplay, just take a look:

Third in line is the TENSION TEST
a.k.a. how does the foam withstand pulling or tearing motion, does it stay in one piece? almost all the time, you need your armor to withstand stress for the cosplayer to rely on it, not to tear on the first day of wearing, not to change it's shape a lot and destroy the paintjob. One way to make sure your armor is sturdy and heavy-duty is to use higher density foam fo your cosplay, just take a look:

I hope this will help you on your future projects and if yes, you can follow my work on cosplay (and other stuff) on my FACEBOOK PAGE.

and if you like this stuff I do, you can support my work by donating on my

Germia <3

Recenze hry Resident Evil VII (CZ language game review)

Hra Resident Evil je již nějakou dobu venku, já měla šanci si ji také zahrát a rozhodla jsem se vám sepsat svých pár postřehů k ní a třeba právě díky mé skromné recenzi se na hraní této hry vrhnete i vy ;)

Jinak zakoupit si ji můžete třeba tady v tomto odkazu a koupí mne můžete i trochu podpořit ;)


A než se začne vůbec s hodnocením gameplaye samotného, pojďme hru vzít a srovnat ji s předchozími díly:

Oproti předchozím dílům hrajeme REVII z pohledu první osoby, což je dost vítaná změna. Pamatuji si jak jsem nějaký pátek zpátky s nadšením zapnula pátý díl série a přes svou postavu často vůbec neviděla při střelbě, interakci s věcmi a to se stalo časem tak otravné, že jsem hru zase rychle vypnula. To se tady nestalo a musím přiznat s odstupem času, že byl začátek hry asi tou její nejlepší částí, což hru sice šlechtí, ale klesající zábava při hraní může i některé hráče odradit - zábava by se při hře měla až do finiše stupňovat, nebo ne?

Ale vraťme se zpátky k samotnému hraní- jak je už snad u všech her zvykem, přivítá nás dlouhé - PŘEdlouhé - intro (a já se občas ptám: Nemůžete nás nechat hned hrát a příběh vysvětlovat postupně? Nebo udělat intro interaktivní? Prosím!) a zasadí nás do příběhu, kdy zase zachraňujeme princeznu ze strašidelného zámku. No - eh - princeznu - už od začátku se úplně animace hlavní hrdinky Miy moc nepovedla, a i z toho důvodu si slečna mé sympatie nezískala... Jen se na ni TADY podívejte!!!
I přesto, že je všem jasné, co se stane, náš hrdina Ethan sedne do plechového koně a jede ji zachraňovat. *FACEPALM* Takže všichni tušíme, co se stane...
Jedna z prvních věcí, která mne na hře zamrzela (ale nepřekvapila, jelikož to bývá asi u všech podobných titulů...), byly jasně naskriptované události a nemožnost volného pohybu. Tedy prostě cesta je vždy jen jedna, z cesty se nelze dostat a lze tedy jít pouze dopředu, nebo se vrátit - to je u hororovek celkem standard, ale možná jsem čekala víc:

Pochvalu si určitě zaslouží atmosféra, kterou vykreslují hlavně povedené zvuky a celkem vydařená světla. Co ve hře úplně nevychytali, jsou zvuky vlastních kroků, které mne ve hře děsily od začátku až do konce...

Uložit si hru nemůžete vždy, když chcete, což přispívá k napětí v samotné hře a strachu, který ve vás vyvolává. Ukládat hru lze na přehrávače, které jsou umístěny na různých místech hry a na jejichž objevování jste ze začátku závislí a postupem času je máte k dispozici stále častěji, což činí hru méně náročnou a tak nějak se člověk méně bojí.

Co se ale opravdu hře povedlo jsou flashbacky, které nacházíte uložené na VHS kazetách. Jsou to v podstatě kazety natočené jiným člověkem, které můžete vy sami hrát a ne pouze nečinně sledovat jako v jiných hrách. Dokonce vám někdy flashbacky pomohou řešit situace ve hře samotné a pomohou prostě "nezemřít". Například v této části hry se ve flashbacku dozvíme o tajném průchodu, který nám v podstatě ukáže cestu dál: Palec nahoru!

Palec dolů je za již zmíněné nascriptované akce, které bývají často dost předvídatelné a člověk pak v průběhu hry spíše hádá, kdy se něco stane, místo aby byl stále napjatý a v nejistotě. Jukněte třeba na tuto mou akci "ve vodě".

Miu docela rychle najdeme a vydáme se za ní, jenže, aby toho nebylo málo, tak je ještě nakažená a stává se z ní docela pěkná potvora, což ve mně zanechalo asi ten nejsilnější zážitek z celé hry, jen se podívejte:

A nejhorší na tom asi je to, že na celém tomto začátku nemáte k dispozici zbraň a získáte ji až při tomto střetu s Miou. A jak už to znáte třeba i z Outlastu, nebo Alien Isolation, absence zbraně nebo držení zbraně, která nefunguje, je něco, co vám dokáže z běžného herního zážitku udělat zážitek hororový... My si tohoto pocitu ale příliš neužijeme, protože zbraně, jež jsou celkem dobře účinné, získáme celkem brzy ve hře :(

Zjistíme, že jsme se ocitli v domě rodiny, která je stejně nemocná a nebezpečná jako Mia ve své podobě potvory a v průběhu hry se musíme prokousat přes všechny členy této rodiny a porazit je jako jednotlivé bossy. No, nejsou sladcí? Velmi brzy se tak z celkem slibné hororové hry stane spíše hra akční s prvky adventury - získáváme klíče, odemykáme nové cesty a sestavujeme puzzle, abychom se dostali dál a přitom vraždíme příšerky a občas se i trochu bojíme a schováváme.

Asi bych teď skončila s vyprávěním příběhu - prozradím vám pouze to, že vás čeká jedno rozhodnutí, které velmi silně ovlivní to, jak hra dopadne, což je na jednu stranu hodně super, ale je to rozhodnutí celkem průhledné, takže se asi každý dokáže rozhodnout "správně".
Dále bych se asi věnovala spíše výrazným plusům a mínusům samotné hry, které vám pomohou lépe se rozhodnout, jestli do hry jít, nebo ne:


  • 1) Atmosféra hry je naprosto dokonalá a ve spoustě případů hra dostojí přízvisku "hororová"
    • Příklad najdete v druhém videu
  • 2) Příběh má nečekané rozuzlení, které může hráče překvapit a některé oldschoolery potěšit!
  • 3) Příběh není závislý na ostatních dílech z franchisu Resident Evil, takže si ho můžete v klidu vychutnat i bez předchozích zkušeností.
  • 4) Hráč musí zapojit mozek, aby na některé záludnosti hry přišel (často se učí smrtí), aby objevil určitě předměty, nebo přišel na to, jak porazit své protivníky. To může být výhodou pro hráče, co rádi výzvy, nevýhodou pro ty, kteří si chtějí u hry spíše oddychnout a "jen se bát".


  • 1) Používání předmětů (nejen) z inventáře je často zdlouhavé a o to více frustruje ve stresových situacích.
    • PŘÍKLAD ZDE - otevření poklopu trvá tak dlouho, že to vypadá, že nás dřív nepřítel odhalí.
  • 2) Boss fighty bývají často nepřehledné a bývá velmi obtížné přijít na to, jak bosse zneškodnit. Hra vám v těchto případech nijak nenapovídá, a to v některých situacích herními enjoymentu nedodá.
    • PŘÍKLAD ZDE - první z boss fightů, kde člověk musí najít všechny předměty a ještě přijít na to, co přesně dělat.
    • NEBO ZDE  - příšerné trápení v boss fightu, kdy pomocí stálého umírání zjišťujete, co asi máte nebo nemáte vlastně proti bossovi dělat.
  • 3) Nalézání předmětů je ve hře pouze jako "side quest" - může to tedy dopadnout tak, že hru procházíte bez důležitého vylepšení a obtížnost se stane téměř nezvladatelnou aniž by vám hra jakkoliv napověděla, že jste něco přešli...
    • PŘÍKLAD ZDE - předlouhé mazání se se zmutovanými příšerami  a neustálé umírání jen proto, že člověk nemá tu správnou zbraň...
  • 4) Jumscary jsou často předvídatelné a nascriptované. Je důležité úmyslně nevyužívat veškerých vhodných příležitostí k vyděšení hráče. Když člověk dělá nějaký úkon často bez problémů, tak ho jakákoliv změna překvapí. Pokud se něco “nepředvídatelného” stane pokaždé, když daný úkon děláme, jump scary již nejsou tak děsivé.

Mé závěrečné hodnocení hry je: 66 %
Hra mne hlavně ze začátku příjemně překvapila svou atmosférou, postupem času se z ní stala spíše akční puzzle hra, jejíž prvky se někdy mohly zdát hráči až frustrující. Celkově však hra pobaví a splní svůj účel.

A na celý gameplay Resident Evilu se můžete juknout TADY!

P.S. Speciální dík patří ALZA.CZ

Dovahkiin Iron helmet tutorial with pattern

My friend is a big fan of Skyrim and he always wanted a helmet of Dovahkiin, the Dragonborn. gift (The helmet is still waiting for him :P) and thought it would be an easy task, since there are a lot of these helmets made all over the internet, so I'll just find a referrence picture, I'll use someone's pattern for it and it will be done in a day. I was wrong.
I've promised to make it for him as a
There is a lot of slightly different designs of the helmet, so I just took one and had to stay true to this design for the whole build. So don't be scared the helmet I've done doesn't look the same as the helmet on the first picture of this article, or some other helmets you can find on the internet. Even the main idea of the helmet stays the same, there are details, that differ.
Also, I didn't find any proper foam pattern for it, so I was forced to make one myself, I can't understand it, since there are a lot of Dovahkiin helmets all over the world already.


I had to make a new helmet pattern, I thought I can use a pepakura file I found on the internet, but the truth is, pepakura has more seams than foamsmiths actually want on their props. The only way how to use pepakura file for this build is to build it from paper and make the foam patterns out of it later. But if you're interested in pepakura, here is the PDF file for you to download and here is the PDO file to download.

I started to make pattern with the help of my polystyrene head. I adjusted the head to be a little bigger than my head (if it is a gift, you have to make the helmet bigger to fit everyone, also a helmet for you needs to be bigger, since you wear often awig under it too and it adds volume to your head) and wrapped it in aluminium foil that I reinforced with ducktape. I've written a desired shape onto it, cut
it in pieces and transfered it on the foam. The pattern for cranial part has a dome shape and has 4 similar parts. Then there is a part for face and with eyeholes marked B, C is the nasal part, D is the horn holder, E is the back part and F is the horn design (but you can design your own shape). The horn holder should be adjusted after the horn is carved out of foam and glued together.
Here is my pattern to download. Before downloading - keep in mind that you need to adjust every piece for your head and for the desired outcome.

Working with foam

I cut the 5mm EVA foam from poly-props with sharp exacto knife. Then I glued it together with contact cement. Then I had the cranial part of the helmet done. If you have some imperfections after gluing the parts together, there are some product, that can fix your mistakes - for example Kwik Seal or Pattex Sanitary Silicone.

Next step was to make a facial part of the helmet - I cut two triangular pieces and glued them to the rest of the helmet. For the parts on the back, there are two layers of foam glued to the back of the cranial part.

I decorated the helmet on the front with moosgummi stripes and borders. I cut the rivets out of moosgummi with simple round grommet pushed on the moosgummi. I carved EVA foam with dremmel to the desired shape and glued it onto the front nasal part of the helmet.

For the horn holders I've used 1cm EVA foam and dremmeled the edges to fit onto the helmet. Before I glued them to the helmet, I inserted the done and painted horns inside and glued them inside with a hot glue gun in the right direction.

Výsledek obrázku pro xps polystyrene
XPS styrofoam/polystyrene
Výsledek obrázku pro pattex  chemoprén

Making the horns

I've bought a layer of XPS polystyrene (XPS polystyrene is much more dense than normal EPS polystyrene - you can find it in gray or green color in hobby markets like Hornbach or Baumax or Obi) and in order to have the horns thick enough was forced to glue 3 layers together. For the gluing I've used polystyrene glue, but hot glue would also do the job if you're careful and don't overheat the glue (glue with really high temperature consumes the polystyrene).
I carved the basice shape with carpet knife and used dremel with thick sanding paper to perfect it's shape. Then I took conical dremel and made all the wrinkles and imperfections in the horns with this tool. Since the surface wasňt so perfect as horns, that you model with clay and cast, you can wrap it in worbla for better surface and sturdiness. For a cheaper variant, I've used gesso (acrylic primer for painting) to make the surface smoother and the horns sturdier - use several layers. When it was dry, I've applied woodglue for additioinal studriness and shinier surface. (This variant can maybe look time consuming, but by using worbla, you would need to do all the details once again and press the worbla hard onto the horn + you won't get away without priming worbla - so in terms of time consuming, both variants are similar).

Výsledek obrázku pro makeup sponge set ebay 8pcs
makeup sponges
Výsledek obrázku pro polyprops seal
poly-props seal

Priming, painting and finishing

After the horns were done with dremel, they were primed with gesso and woodglue and I've decided to use acrylic color for painting. I've painted the whole horn with makeup brush with dark brown color and when it was dry I put a little of color on a makeup sponge and dabbed it all over the horn. Thanks to this technique, the color got only on higher based places and didn't reach into the lower based places and crinckles. This way I build up to the lightest light brown and the horns were done. I glued them then inside the horns holders with hotglue, which were later glued to the whole helmet with contact cement.

Then I took the helmet and made battle damage all over the place with cylindrical adapter. Be careful by doing battledamage, that the damaged places should be on the probable spots of impact. Don't make battle damage on unaccessible places, where it doesn't make sense.(This step is optional, but it adds a feel of reality into the helmet)

I primed it then with polyprops-seal primer, which leaves on the surface rubber like film and makes the helmet much sturdier and much more durable even by bending. It also makes the foam sealed so it doesn't drink so much paint. It is similar to PlastiDip! Then I painted it with black acrylic color everywhere except the horns. When it was dry, I took makeup sponge, put a little drop of high quality silver acrylic color on it and made small strokes with it all over the whole helmet, so it looked worn and not so shiny. If you want a new shiny helmet look, you can dab the sponge evenly on the helmet as I showed already in my tutorial HERE or HERE.

I added also a rust effect on some places - try to mix orange, brown, black, and red for the best effect, for bestresults use acrylic medium for a uneven look.

I hope this will help you on your future projects and if yes, you can follow my work on cosplay (and other stuff) on my FACEBOOK PAGE.

and if you like this stuff I do, you can support my work by donating on my

Germia <3